London pubs have a storied history. If, like a young me, you expect all pubs in London to be quaint, family-owned taverns with worn leather bar stools and a crackling fireplace, you may have to adjust. Pub ownership in the United Kingdom has been consolidated a great deal recently by large companies–with mixed outcomes for the pub industry and for pubgoers. The changes, however, should not deter you from experiencing the great British pastime of sipping a beer with your mates. This guide will give you enough knowledge about pubs to make you feel confident walking into one while wandering the streets of London.
Pub Chains
The first thing to understand is the difference between a tied house and a free house. A tied house is a pub that has to buy at least a portion of its beer from a certain brewery or pub company. A free house on the other hand has the ability to purchase from any supplier it chooses. Though tied houses date back to the 17th century, in the late 20th century and beyond, they have become very influential in the public house scene.
Competition between brewers led those with capital to buy independent locations to secure a market for their beer. The growth of tied houses led to formation of pub chains. These chains range in size with some owning 200 pub locations. The largest owns over 3,100 locations throughout the United Kingdom.
Tenanted vs. Managed Chains
Tenanted pubs may be owned by a brewery or corporation, but the publican (or pub manager) is able to maintain the pub independently by choosing how they decorate, the food they serve, and how the pub is run. A managed house is run like a franchise with the corporation making all decisions about what is served, activities that take place, and how the pub looks.
Walking the streets of London on numerous occasions, I have identified five major pub chains which offer varied experiences of modern pub culture. Knowing what these five, and other major players, have to offer will help you decide what pub might be right for you.
The Ultimate Deep Dive Guide to London Pubs
Young’s
Best locations: The Lamb (94 Lamb’s Conduit St) The Old Shades (37 Whitehall), The Spread Eagle (224 Homerton High St)
My personal favorite of the five most visible pub chains is Young’s. This chain of public houses has clearly chosen to focus on the tenant model of management and therefore boasts beautiful locations that offer unique experiences and a wide array of menu options. If you enjoy their beer selection, you could choose a different Young’s pub each day and have a different experience.
Or, if you prefer to forgo the beer, head to The Old Shades for a proper Pimm’s Cup (a popular cocktail with gin) The one item you will unfailingly find on a Young’s menu is their Aspall Cyder Fish & Chips. These pubs are a great option if you hope to experience a “Sunday roast,” a classic British meal, during your visit. On my last trip, I visited The Lamb for an excellent Sunday roast where I felt as though I were a cherished regular.
Fuller’s
Best locations: The Holly Bush (22 Holly Mt), The Lamb and Flag (33 Rose St), The Churchill Arms (119 Kensington Church St)
Next on my list of recommended pub chains is Fuller’s. They can pour you a pint of my favorite ale, London Pride. They also have a bit more noticeable curation as a chain. Within the Fuller’s brand, you can find elevated pub food at locations like the Holly Bush or cozy taverns with a classic feel and fare like the Lamb and Flag. Fuller’s also has some tenanted options like the gorgeous Churchill Arms. There, you can buck tradition and have Thai food in an English pub.
J.D. Wetherspoon’s
Best locations: The Half Moon (93 Lower Richmond Rd), Shakespeare’s Head (64-68 Kingsway), The Rochester Castle (143-145 Stoke Newington High St)
When I was attending University in London, my friends and I would frequent pubs in the Wetherspoon’s chain. We ate there often because we could get a burger and a beer for £8 and go to the club right after. Wetherspoon’s combination of affordable food and drink makes it ideal for students. These are also good pubs for families who need a larger variety on the menu or ease of service as you order through an app at your table.
Greene King or Nicholson’s
Best locations: The Two Chairmen (39 Dartmouth St), The Elephant and Castle (119 Newington Causeway), The Mudlark (Montague Cl)
Both the Greene King and Nicholson’s chains offer nearly the same menu at each of their respective locations. The most variety you’ll get is whether the location has a larger or smaller menu selection. Both these chains have ownership over some historic locations and offer classic British dishes. Feel free to venture into one on your trip. If you like the food, you’ll know what to expect on subsequent visits. However, if you’re looking for variety, you won’t want to visit more than one.
Independent Pubs
Best locations: The King’s Arms (251 Tooley St), The Black Dog Beer House (A7 Albany Rd). The Southampton Arms (139 Highgate Rd), The French House (49 Dean St), The Ivy House (40 Stewart Rd)
Many of the pubs you come across in London will bear the name of one of the aforementioned chains. And yet, you will come across many who do not. This does not always mean you have stumbled upon an independently owned pub. Likely you will come across many that are owned by larger companies, but don’t display their chain affiliation. If you wish to avoid these, deals on “2-for-1” cocktails are often a giveaway.
If you truly wish to seek out the gem that is an independently owned free house, each of these offers something different when it comes to drink, food, and atmosphere that are great for exploring what the modern pub scene has to offer.
Story by Kirsten Chervenak
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